Summary
Sealing is a maintenance service, not an installation service, and it's priced and sold very differently — the customer already has a driveway; they want it to look new again and to stop deteriorating further. This makes it a strong repeat-revenue line for landscaping, paving and jet-washing businesses, but it's also a category with a wide quality spread: a rushed jet-wash-and-spray job that skips proper drying time or joint re-sanding fails within a year, while a correctly sequenced job protects the surface for 3–5 years and builds a maintenance-contract relationship with the customer.
The service splits into distinct work by surface type, and each has different failure modes if rushed. Block paving needs joint sand replaced before sealing (sealing over failing joints just glues the problem in place). Tarmac sealing (sometimes called "tarmac rejuvenation") restores UV-faded, oxidised bitumen and fills hairline crazing, but does nothing for structural cracking or potholing — that's a repair job, not a sealing job (see driveway crack repair pricing guide). Resin-bound and pattern imprinted concrete have their own specific resealing cycles built into the original installation spec, and skipping them is the single biggest cause of premature colour fade and surface wear on those systems.
This guide covers pricing for all four common driveway surface types, the prep work that determines whether a seal lasts, the weather window constraints that catch out first-time sealing contractors, and a worked example for a 45m² block paving driveway. For full driveway installation costs rather than maintenance, see tarmac driveway pricing guide and resin bound paving guide; for surface cleaning without sealing, see pressure washing pricing guide; for structural crack repair, see driveway crack repair pricing guide.
Key Facts
- Block paving sealant types — solvent-based (deeper penetration, stronger odour, faster cure), water-based (lower odour, more common for occupied domestic driveways), and joint-stabilising sealants that bind sand in the joints to resist weed growth and ant erosion
- Block paving re-sanding is mandatory before sealing — sealing over depleted or weed-infested joints traps the problem rather than fixing it; kiln-dried sand (or a polymeric jointing sand for weed suppression) must be swept in and compacted first
- Tarmac sealant/rejuvenator — a bitumen-emulsion-based coating that restores surface colour, fills UV-oxidation crazing, and slows further water penetration; does not fill structural cracks or potholes
- Resin-bound resealing — a clear UV-stable polyurethane or acrylic topcoat reapplied every 5–8 years to refresh gloss and colour, not a full re-lay
- Pattern imprinted concrete (PIC) resealing — acrylic sealer needs reapplication every 3–5 years, polyurethane every 4–6 years; skipping this is the leading cause of PIC colour fade and surface hardener wear (see pattern imprinted concrete)
- Natural stone paving sealing — impregnating sealer (not a surface film) to prevent iron staining and water ingress; typically every 3–5 years depending on stone porosity
- Minimum dry weather window — most sealants require 24–48 hours of dry weather before application (surface must be fully dry) and 24–48 hours of dry weather after (before rain or frost can wash out or blush the curing sealant)
- Minimum surface temperature — most sealants specify 10°C minimum and rising; application below this risks poor film formation and a milky or patchy finish
- Cure/traffic time — foot traffic typically after 4–8 hours, vehicle traffic after 24–48 hours depending on product and temperature
- Jet-wash pressure for prep — moderate pressure (100–150 bar) for block paving and concrete; lower pressure for resin-bound and natural stone to avoid disturbing the surface
- Weed and moss treatment — biocide/algaecide treatment before sealing where organic growth is present; sealing over active moss or algae traps it under the film
- Efflorescence — white mineral bloom on new or recently-cleaned concrete/block paving; must be neutralised (proprietary efflorescence remover) before sealing, or it reappears under the seal
- Re-sanding coverage — kiln-dried sand typically covers 1–2m² per 25kg bag depending on joint width and depth
- Environment Agency / Water Resources Act 1991 — run-off from jet-washing and chemical treatments must not enter surface water drains; use a drain cover or vacuum recovery system on hard-standing near gullies
Quick Reference Table — Sealing Pricing by Surface Type
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Try squote free →| Surface Type | Prep Included | Price per m² | Typical 45m² Driveway |
|---|---|---|---|
| Block paving — jet-wash + re-sand + solvent seal | Yes | £5–£8 | £225–£360 |
| Block paving — jet-wash + re-sand + water-based seal | Yes | £4–£7 | £180–£315 |
| Tarmac — clean + crack-fill hairlines + rejuvenator seal | Yes | £3–£6 | £135–£270 |
| Resin-bound — jet-wash + clear UV topcoat | Yes | £8–£12 | £360–£540 |
| Pattern imprinted concrete — jet-wash + acrylic reseal | Yes | £8–£12 | £360–£540 |
| Pattern imprinted concrete — jet-wash + polyurethane reseal | Yes | £10–£15 | £450–£675 |
| Natural stone (sandstone/slate) — clean + impregnating sealer | Yes | £9–£14 | £405–£630 |
| Block paving — sealing only, joints already sound | No re-sand | £3–£5 | £135–£225 |
| Cost Component | Typical Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Kiln-dried sand (per 25kg bag) | £8–£14 | Covers approx. 1–2m² depending on joint depth |
| Polymeric jointing sand (weed-suppressing, per 25kg bag) | £25–£40 | Premium alternative, sets firm in the joint |
| Block paving sealant (per 5L, solvent) | £45–£75 | Covers approx. 15–25m² per coat |
| Block paving sealant (per 5L, water-based) | £35–£60 | Covers approx. 12–20m² per coat |
| Tarmac rejuvenator (per 5L) | £35–£55 | Covers approx. 10–15m² per coat |
| Resin/PIC clear topcoat (per 5L) | £55–£90 | Covers approx. 20–30m² per coat |
| Efflorescence remover (per 5L) | £20–£35 | Where needed on new/cleaned concrete or block |
| Biocide/algaecide treatment (per 5L, concentrate) | £25–£40 | Where moss/algae present |
| Jet-wash hire (if not owned) | £45–£75/day | Most established contractors own equipment |
| Minimum call-out | £150–£250 | Covers small driveways/patios where travel and setup dominate |
Detailed Guidance
Why prep determines whether the seal lasts
The sealant itself is rarely where a sealing job fails — the prep is. Three prep failures account for the majority of premature seal failure call-backs:
- Sealing over depleted or weed-choked joints (block paving). The joints must be raked out where weeds are established, treated, and refilled with fresh kiln-dried or polymeric sand before sealing. Sealing over a joint with a weed root still present just seals the weed under a film that it will eventually push through again.
- Sealing a surface that isn't fully dry. Even a visually dry surface can retain moisture in the joints or in a porous substrate (concrete, natural stone) for 24–48 hours after jet-washing, especially in cool or humid UK weather. Sealant applied over residual moisture goes milky, blushes white, or fails to bond, and the only fix is to strip it back and start again.
- Not treating efflorescence or organic growth first. White mineral bloom (efflorescence) on new or recently-pressure-washed concrete and block paving will continue to migrate to the surface after sealing unless neutralised first — sealing traps the moisture that's carrying the salts, making it worse, not better.
Weather window — the constraint that catches out first-time sealing contractors
Sealing work is highly weather-dependent in a way that many other trades aren't, and quoting without building in weather contingency is the most common commercial mistake in this category:
- Before application — most manufacturers specify a minimum of 24 hours (some 48 hours) of dry weather immediately before sealing, and the surface must be visually and physically dry, not just rain-free
- During application — minimum surface temperature typically 10°C and rising; avoid direct hot sun on some water-based products, which can flash-dry the film before it levels
- After application — 24–48 hours of dry weather is typically needed before the film has cured enough to resist rain; a rain shower within a few hours of application can wash out an uncured water-based sealant entirely, requiring a full reapplication at the contractor's cost if not disclaimed in the quote
Always quote sealing work with an explicit weather clause: "Application scheduled subject to a minimum 24-hour dry window before and after treatment; if conditions are unsuitable on the scheduled day, the job will be rescheduled at no additional charge, but rain damage to a sealant applied against site instruction to proceed in marginal conditions is not covered by warranty." This protects the contractor from the single most common driveway-sealing dispute.
Block paving — the re-sanding decision
The joint sand in block paving does structural work — it locks the blocks together and prevents lateral movement under traffic. Over time it washes out, gets colonised by weeds and ants, or gets swept away by jet-washing. Before sealing:
- Jet-wash the full surface at moderate pressure (100–150 bar), working methodically to avoid blasting sand out of joints that are still sound
- Treat any weed growth with a biocide and allow the manufacturer's specified dwell time
- Allow the surface to dry fully — minimum 24 hours, longer in damp conditions
- Sweep fresh kiln-dried sand (or polymeric sand for weed suppression) into all joints, working it in with a vibrating plate or hand compaction, topping up until the joints are fully packed
- Remove all surplus sand from the block surface before sealing — residual sand left on the surface creates a gritty, uneven sealed finish
- Apply sealant in thin, even coats — two thin coats give a better, more even finish than one thick coat and reduce the risk of pooling in low spots
A polymeric jointing sand (rather than standard kiln-dried) costs 2–3× more per bag but sets to a semi-rigid, weed-resistant fill and is increasingly the customer up-sell of choice on driveways with a known weed problem — quote it as a named option, not a silent substitution.
Tarmac — rejuvenation vs repair
Tarmac sealant (sometimes marketed as a driveway "rejuvenator" or "resurfacer coating") restores the black colour lost to UV oxidation and fills fine surface crazing, giving a tired-looking drive a genuinely improved appearance and slightly better water resistance. It is explicitly not a repair product:
- Fine surface crazing and colour fade — sealant is the correct, cost-effective fix
- Hairline cracks under about 3mm — some rejuvenator products include a crack-filling additive or can be preceded by a separate crack-seal pass; check the product spec
- Structural cracking, potholing, or edge crumbling — these require excavation and patching (see driveway crack repair pricing guide) before any sealant is applied; sealing over structural damage hides the problem cosmetically for one season while it continues to worsen underneath
Always inspect for structural versus cosmetic deterioration before quoting a tarmac seal, and be explicit in the quote about which category the driveway falls into — this avoids the customer's expectation that a £200 sealing job will fix a driveway that actually needs a £2,000 resurfacing.
Resin-bound and pattern imprinted concrete — sealing is part of the original spec, not an optional extra
Both of these premium surface types have a resealing interval built into their design life from day one, and it should be flagged to the customer at the point of original installation, not treated as a surprise upsell years later:
- Resin-bound — a clear UV-stable topcoat every 5–8 years refreshes gloss and helps shed dirt; the underlying resin-aggregate matrix itself doesn't need resealing to remain structurally sound, but the surface look and stain resistance benefit significantly
- Pattern imprinted concrete — this is the surface type where resealing is genuinely load-bearing for appearance: without it, the coloured surface hardener wears through to plain grey concrete within a few years of traffic and UV exposure. Acrylic sealer needs reapplication every 3–5 years; polyurethane every 4–6 years but at a higher initial cost
For PIC specifically, quote the resealing cycle as a maintenance contract at the point of original installation — a customer who understands upfront that resealing is due at year 4 is a return customer; one who wasn't told is a customer who feels misled when the colour has faded by year 6.
Access, edge protection and site protection — the overlooked cost lines
- Vehicle access — the driveway is typically out of use for the full cure period (24–48 hours minimum); confirm with the customer where they'll park during this window, particularly for households with only one off-street parking space
- Adjacent surfaces — mask or protect adjoining render, brickwork, and planting beds from sealant overspray, particularly with solvent-based products which can stain porous masonry
- Drain protection — cover nearby surface water gullies during jet-washing and sealant application to prevent run-off (containing sediment, biocide residue, or sealant) entering the drainage system, per the Water Resources Act 1991 and Environment Agency pollution prevention guidance
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should a driveway be resealed?
It depends entirely on the surface. Block paving sealant typically needs renewal every 2–4 years depending on traffic and UV exposure. Tarmac rejuvenator lasts roughly 2–3 years before colour fade returns. Resin-bound topcoats last 5–8 years. Pattern imprinted concrete needs acrylic resealing every 3–5 years or polyurethane every 4–6 years. Natural stone impregnating sealers typically last 3–5 years depending on stone porosity and traffic. Set a proactive reminder/maintenance-contract cycle with the customer rather than waiting for visible fade, which by the time it's obvious usually means some protective benefit has already been lost for a year or more.
Can I seal a driveway myself, or does it need a specialist?
The materials are available to competent DIYers, and many homeowners do attempt it. Where contractors add value is in correct prep (particularly re-sanding block paving joints properly, not just topping up visible gaps), reading the weather window accurately, and using professional-grade sealants that outperform retail DIY products in coverage rate and durability. Quote against the DIY alternative by emphasising the failure modes of rushed or under-prepped DIY jobs — patchy finish, sealant applied over damp joints, and no re-sand before sealing are the most common DIY mistakes that professional work avoids.
My customer's block paving has ants and weeds coming through — will sealing fix this?
Sealing alone won't stop an active ant or weed problem — it needs to be treated first. Full joint raking, a biocide/insecticide treatment with appropriate dwell time, then refilling with fresh sand (ideally a polymeric jointing sand, which sets semi-rigid and is significantly more weed- and ant-resistant than standard kiln-dried sand) before sealing. Sealing over an active infestation traps it temporarily, and it typically re-emerges within a season as the organisms push through joints or find gaps at the sealant's edge.
Does sealing make a driveway slippery?
Some sealants, particularly high-gloss solvent-based block paving sealants, can increase slip risk when wet, especially on smooth block or slab surfaces. For driveways with slopes, steps, or where slip resistance is a specific concern, specify a matt or satin-finish sealant, or a product with an added anti-slip additive, rather than a high-gloss "wet look" finish. Always check the product's wet slip resistance rating where the customer raises this as a concern.
Is driveway sealing covered by the SuDS permeability rules?
No — sealing an existing driveway doesn't change its permeability classification under the GPDO Class F front-drive rule, since the surface's fundamental drainage characteristics (permeable resin-bound vs impermeable block/tarmac/concrete) are set at installation, not by a maintenance sealant. See suds regulations driveways for the installation-stage permeability rules, which are a separate consideration from maintenance sealing.
Regulations & Standards
Water Resources Act 1991 — controls on pollution of controlled waters; relevant to jet-wash and chemical run-off entering surface water drains
Environment Agency Pollution Prevention Guidance (PPG) — practical guidance on preventing contaminated run-off from cleaning and treatment work reaching drains and watercourses
BS 7533-3 — code of practice for laying precast concrete block paviors; relevant background for joint sand specification, even though sealing itself is a maintenance activity outside the installation standard
Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations 2002 (COSHH) — applicable to solvent-based sealants, biocides and efflorescence removers used by contractors
Environment Agency — Pollution Prevention Guidance — run-off and drainage protection during cleaning/treatment work
Interpave — Guide to the Design, Construction and Maintenance of Concrete Block Permeable Pavements — block paving joint and maintenance guidance
British Association of Landscape Industries (BALI) — landscape and paving contractor best-practice reference
pattern imprinted concrete — PIC sealing and resealing specification in full detail
resin bound paving guide — resin-bound installation, maintenance and resealing
pressure washing pricing guide — cleaning-only pricing without sealing
driveway crack repair pricing guide — structural crack and patch repair, distinct from cosmetic sealing