Summary

Crack repair sits at the cheap end of driveway work and is one of the most common enquiries a groundworker or driveway contractor gets — but it's also one of the easiest jobs to misprice, in both directions. Quote it too cheap and a simple sealant job takes twice as long as expected once cracks turn out to be more extensive than they looked from the pavement. Quote it as a patch repair when the real problem is a failed sub-base, and the customer is back within a year with the same cracks, now wider, wondering why they paid for a repair that didn't last.

The diagnostic step that most quotes skip is reading the crack pattern before pricing the fix. Fine, random hairline cracking across a tarmac surface (often called "crazing" or map cracking) is usually a surface ageing issue and responds well to sealant. A single wide crack running the length of the driveway, especially with a step or level difference either side, usually indicates sub-base movement or settlement, and sealing it is a cosmetic fix that will reopen. Alligator (interlocking network) cracking is close to a diagnostic certainty for base failure and should be quoted as reconstruction, not repair — see driveway resurfacing pricing guide for that scope.

This guide covers genuine repair work: sealing surface cracks to stop water ingress and slow deterioration, patching localised failed areas, and resin-injecting structural cracks in concrete. It does not cover full resurfacing or reconstruction — those are separate, larger jobs, and conflating them with "crack repair" in a quote is a common source of customer disputes when a repair-priced job turns out to need base work.

Key Facts

Quick Reference Table

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Repair Type Price Typical Scope
Hot-pour crack sealing (tarmac) £8–£15/linear m (min. £150–£250 call-out) Individual cracks or crazed sections
Cold-pour crack filler (budget) £4–£8/linear m Minor cosmetic cracks; shorter lifespan
Spot patch repair (cut out + reinstate) £180–£480 per patch Localised failed area, potholed section
Concrete resin injection (structural crack) £150–£350 per crack Through-thickness structural cracks
Full-surface crack sealing treatment £4–£8/m² Widespread fine crazing across whole driveway
Multiple patch repairs (3–4 patches) £600–£1,200 Driveway with several failed localised areas
Movement joint repair/reinstatement (concrete) £60–£150 per joint Where recurring cracking traces to a failed joint

Detailed Guidance

Reading the crack before quoting

Before pricing anything, walk the driveway and categorise what's actually there. Fine, randomly distributed hairline cracking across a tarmac surface (crazing) responds well to a full-surface sealant treatment and is a legitimate maintenance job. A single crack running the full length or width of the drive, particularly with any vertical step either side, points to settlement or sub-base movement — sealing it is cosmetic and the crack will very likely reopen within a season or two. Alligator cracking — a tight network of interlocking cracks resembling reptile skin — is close to diagnostic for base failure under repeated loading, and quoting this as a repair rather than flagging it for resurfacing sets the customer up for a wasted spend. Always tell the customer what you're seeing and why, even if it means quoting a smaller repair job than they hoped, or recommending they get a resurfacing quote instead.

Tarmac crack sealing method and pricing

The durable method is hot-pour rubberised crack sealant applied into a routed-out crack — routing widens the crack to a consistent profile and removes loose material, giving the sealant a clean surface to bond to. Skipping the routing step and simply pouring sealant over an untreated crack is the most common reason cheap crack-filling jobs fail within a year; price the routing time into the linear metre rate, don't treat it as optional.

Concrete crack repair — resin injection vs surface sealing

Concrete cracks need a different diagnostic split. Plastic shrinkage cracks — fine, appearing within days of the original pour, generally not extending through the full slab thickness — are largely cosmetic and can be treated with a surface sealant or cosmetic filler. Genuine structural cracks — extending through the slab, often opening and closing seasonally, frequently occurring at or near a movement joint that has failed — need resin injection to restore bond and stop water ingress that will otherwise lead to freeze-thaw spalling. Get this diagnosis wrong in either direction and either you're charging structural repair rates for a cosmetic crack, or you're offering a cosmetic fix for a problem that will keep recurring.

When repair isn't the right answer

The point where repeated patching stops being economical is roughly 20–25% of the driveway surface affected, or any sign the sub-base itself has failed (rutting, undulation, or patches sinking under load). At that point the honest quote is resurfacing or reconstruction — see driveway resurfacing pricing guide and tarmac driveway pricing guide — and continuing to sell patch repairs on a failing base is the kind of corner-cutting that generates complaints and repeat callbacks within a year or two.

Worked example

A tarmac driveway with two areas of localised failure (potholed patches, roughly 1m² each) and a 6m run of fine crazing along one edge:

Frequently Asked Questions

Will crack sealing stop my driveway cracking again?

It slows the process but doesn't stop it entirely, particularly on an ageing surface subject to ongoing thermal movement and traffic loading. Sealing prevents water getting into the crack and freeze-thaw widening it further, which is the main mechanism that turns a hairline crack into a structural problem — so it's a genuinely useful maintenance treatment, but set the expectation that it's not a permanent, one-time fix on a surface that's naturally ageing.

My driveway has one big crack running across it — is that a quick repair?

Not necessarily. A single crack running the width or length of a driveway, especially with any noticeable step in level either side, usually indicates the sub-base has moved or settled underneath, not just a surface defect. Sealing it addresses the symptom, not the cause, and it will very likely reopen. Get this properly diagnosed before quoting — it may need localised sub-base repair rather than surface crack sealing.

Can I repair cracks in concrete myself with a filler from a DIY shop?

For minor cosmetic shrinkage cracks, a DIY concrete crack filler can be adequate for a homeowner. For anything that looks structural — cracks that have opened noticeably, cracks at a movement joint, or cracks with any vertical displacement — professional resin injection is the appropriate repair, because DIY fillers don't restore structural bond across the crack face the way an injected resin system does.

How long does a professional crack repair last?

Hot-pour rubberised sealant on tarmac typically lasts 3–6 years before it needs renewing, depending on UV exposure and traffic. Resin-injected concrete cracks, correctly diagnosed and executed, can effectively be permanent for that specific crack, though the surrounding slab remains subject to whatever caused the original crack if that root cause (movement joint failure, sub-base settlement) hasn't been addressed.

Regulations & Standards