How to Build a Wet Room: Tanking, Falls, Drainage & BS 5385

Quick Answer: A wet room requires: a waterproof tanking membrane applied over the entire shower zone (and ideally the full floor); a floor fall of minimum 1:80 (ideally 1:60) towards the drain; a linear or point drain positioned appropriately for the fall direction; and tanking carried a minimum 150mm up all walls above the finished floor level. BS 5385-4 and BS 5385-1 cover the tile and waterproofing requirements.

Summary

A wet room (open shower area with no enclosure) requires more careful construction than a conventional tray shower because there is no physical barrier containing the water. If the waterproofing fails, water tracks into the substrate, into adjoining walls, or through to the room below — expensive damage that is entirely preventable with correct installation from the outset.

The most common failure mode is inadequate tanking: either the wrong product, insufficient coverage, or a failure at a joint or transition (wall-to-floor junction, pipe penetrations, drain perimeter). The second most common failure is inadequate fall — water that does not drain promptly creates standing pools, slip hazards, and extended contact time that defeats even correctly applied waterproofing.

This guide covers the complete wet room construction sequence for a ground-floor or first-floor domestic bathroom, from substrate preparation through to grouting.

Key Facts

Quick Reference Table

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System Type Skill Level Reliability Cost Notes
Brush-applied liquid membrane Medium Good if applied correctly Low-medium 2 coats; reinforcement tape at joints
Sheet membrane (Schluter Kerdi) Medium-high Excellent Medium Factory-made corners; precise joints
Foam board (Wedi, Marmox) Medium Excellent Medium-high Boards are substrate + waterproofing; fast
Pre-formed tray (e.g. Impey) Low Excellent Medium Factory-tested; limited dimensions
Sand/cement screed + tanking Medium-high Good if correct mix Low Traditional; requires experienced screed layer

Detailed Guidance

Substrate Preparation

The substrate must be:

  1. Solid and rigid — no flex; if on a timber floor, the substrate must be solid enough to prevent deflection. Fix plywood subfloor (18-22mm marine or structural grade) securely to joists at 150mm centres. Total thickness above joists should allow the finished floor level to match adjacent rooms.
  2. Level in all directions — or deliberately set to the required fall before tanking
  3. Clean — free of dust, grease, and loose material

On a timber floor: the floor must be de-flexed. Lay 18mm plywood on top of the existing boards (or replace boards with plywood). Fasten securely. The assembly should not move or creak. Any movement will eventually crack the tile adhesive, grout, and membrane.

On concrete: less of a problem, but check for cracks (inject or fill cracks before tanking) and any surface contamination.

Creating the Fall

The floor must fall consistently to the drain at a gradient of 1:80 minimum (1:60 preferred). Options:

Wet room formers / shower bases: Manufactured polystyrene or foam wet room formers (Wedi Subloor, Schluter Kerdi-Shower-ST, Impey pre-graded trays) have the fall pre-formed. These are by far the easiest way to achieve a consistent, correct fall. Available in standard sizes; can be cut to fit. The former acts as the substrate and waterproofing base simultaneously (if the foam board system) or as a base for the membrane (if separate membrane system).

Sand/cement screed: A dry-packed sand/cement screed (4:1 sand:cement) can be laid to the required fall by an experienced plasterer or tiler. The fall is set using formwork or careful floats from the drain outward. This is traditional but requires skill to achieve a consistent, accurate fall. Allow to cure fully (28 days) before tanking.

Self-levelling compound with integral fall: Some systems use a proprietary levelling compound poured to a former, which creates the fall as it levels. Follow manufacturer's system precisely.

Drain Installation

Point drain (central drain):

Linear drain (edge or mid-floor):

Drain connection: the drain body connects to the 40mm or 50mm waste pipe before the screed or former is installed. The pipe must be correctly positioned in plan before pour or former placement — it cannot be easily moved afterwards. Ensure the top of the drain body is at the correct height to finish at or just below the finished tile surface.

Tanking System Application

Brush-applied liquid membrane (BAL Waterproof Plus, Ardex S1, Schluter Kerdi-Band + liquid):

  1. Ensure substrate is clean and dust-free
  2. Apply a primer if specified by the manufacturer
  3. Apply reinforcement tape (fibreglass mesh tape) into the first coat at all wall-floor junctions and internal corners — this prevents membrane cracking at movement-prone junctions
  4. Apply first coat of membrane with a brush or roller; ensure even coverage; allow to cure as per data sheet (typically 4-6 hours)
  5. Apply reinforcement tape at all pipe penetrations (around the pipe) and at the drain perimeter
  6. Apply second coat; allow to cure
  7. Carry the membrane minimum 150mm up all walls; ideally to the full height of the tile zone on shower walls
  8. Allow full cure before tiling (typically 24 hours)

Sheet membrane (Schluter Kerdi):

The Schluter Kerdi system uses a polyethylene membrane with fleece bonding layers. It is embedded in unmodified thin-set tile adhesive and acts as both waterproofing and tile substrate.

  1. Apply thin-set to the wall or floor using a notched trowel
  2. Embed the Kerdi membrane into the wet thin-set; press firmly and smooth out air pockets
  3. Overlap membrane joints by minimum 50mm; embed overlap in thin-set
  4. Use Kerdi-Band for internal corners and joints; Kerdi-Seal for drain connection
  5. Allow to cure before tiling (24 hours)

Foam board systems (Wedi, Marmox, Jackoboard):

These boards are extruded polystyrene with a fibre-reinforced surface. They are both the substrate and the waterproofing base. Fix boards to the wall or floor with the manufacturer's adhesive/fixing system. Tape all joints with mesh tape and seal with the system sealer. Tile directly onto the boards.

Tiling the Wet Room Floor

Tile selection:

Adhesive: use S1 or S2 flexible tile adhesive (BS EN 12004:2007 Type CG2 S1 or S2) in wet rooms; rigid adhesives crack with any movement or thermal cycling.

Grouting: use a waterproof/flexible grout (polymer-modified or epoxy for heavy-use areas). Apply sealer to porous or natural stone tiles. Apply silicone (colour-matched) at all changes of plane (floor-to-wall) — no rigid grout at these junctions.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does my wet room need to be notified to Building Control?

A wet room installation typically does not require Building Control notification in an existing property for the tile and waterproofing work itself. However, if the work involves: moving a soil stack or waste pipe (structural element, potentially notifiable), moving or adding electrical circuits (Part P notifiable), or as part of a larger extension or conversion — then Building Control may be involved. Check with the local authority if in doubt.

Can I tile directly onto plasterboard in a wet room?

Standard plasterboard is not suitable as a tile substrate in a wet room. You must use: cement board (Knauf Aquapanel, HardieBacker), or waterproof foam board (Wedi, Jackoboard), or moisture-resistant plasterboard with a full waterproofing membrane applied. Never tile directly onto standard grey plasterboard in a wet zone.

How long does a wet room last before resealing is needed?

A well-constructed wet room with quality tanking and flexible silicone should not need major resealing for 10-15 years. However, the silicone at floor-to-wall junctions and around the drain does deteriorate and should be inspected and replaced every 5-7 years as preventive maintenance. Grout joints can be re-grouted if staining or deterioration occurs.

What's the minimum size for a wet room shower area?

There is no statutory minimum size, but practically: 900×900mm is the absolute minimum for comfortable use; 1200×900mm is more comfortable; 1200×1200mm or larger is the design standard. The larger the shower area, the more floor area falls in the wet zone and the more critical precise fall geometry becomes.

Regulations & Standards