Kitchen Extraction and Ventilation: Approved Document F Compliance Guide

Quick Answer: Approved Document F (2021) requires kitchen extraction at minimum 30 litres/second (ducted) or 60 litres/second (recirculating) when the cooker hood is running, or 13 litres/second continuous background ventilation. Recirculating hoods need activated carbon filters to remove odours and separate ventilation for moisture. Duct diameter must be minimum 125mm; maximum duct run 2m per 90° elbow before derating the motor. All notifiable electrical work requires Part P compliance.

Summary

Kitchen ventilation sounds simple — a fan blows air out — but in practice it sits at the intersection of Building Regulations (Part F), electrical safety (Part P), gas safety (near hobs), fire safety (duct penetrations), and heat loss (energy penalty of uncontrolled air leakage). Getting it wrong shows up in condensation problems, persistent cooking smells, and occasionally a failed Building Control inspection.

Approved Document F was substantially revised in 2021 to bring in tighter standards and new requirements for new-build and replacement works. The key change: separate explicit flow rates for ducted versus recirculating hoods, mandatory minimum background ventilation even when the hood is off, and guidance on mechanical ventilation with heat recovery (MVHR) in high-performance homes.

For kitchen fitters and plumbers fitting extract ducting, the most common problems are: undersized duct runs that restrict the motor and reduce flow, poorly sealed ducts that leak warm air into the ceiling void, and recirculating hoods fitted without adequate background ventilation to handle moisture.

Key Facts

Quick Reference Table — Extract Rates by Hood Type

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Hood Type Minimum Extract Rate Background Ventilation Needed Moisture Removed?
Ducted (to outside) 30 l/s at grille Yes — 13 l/s Yes
Recirculating (carbon filter only) 60 l/s at grille Yes — plus separate moisture extraction No
Recirculating with dehumidification 60 l/s at grille Yes Yes (small amounts)
Inline fan (remote motor) 30 l/s at grille Yes — 13 l/s Yes (if ducted out)

Detailed Guidance

Choosing Ducted vs Recirculating

Ducted extraction is always the better technical solution. It removes cooking moisture, odours, heat, and airborne particles. The duct run to outside is the complication — it requires a route through the external wall or ceiling and beyond.

Recirculating extraction is used where a duct run to outside is impractical: island hobs with no overhead route, period properties, or new builds where airtightness makes extraction difficult to balance. Recirculating hoods use activated carbon filters to remove odours; grease filters remove particulates. They do NOT remove moisture. In a high-airtightness home (new build), a recirculating hood must be combined with a dedicated MVHR system or a humidistat-controlled background fan in the kitchen, otherwise condensation problems will occur.

Carbon filter maintenance — activated carbon filters saturate and stop working. Replacement is typically every 3–6 months with heavy kitchen use. If the carbon filter is overdue, the hood still runs but does not remove odours. Advise clients.

Duct Sizing and Flow

The fundamental rule: duct resistance determines whether the motor achieves its rated flow rate. A 30 l/s hood motor measured on the bench may only achieve 15 l/s when installed in a 6m tortuous duct run with 3 bends.

Duct sizing:

Flow Rate Required Minimum Duct Diameter Max velocity (for quiet operation)
30 l/s (ducted hood) 125mm 2.0 m/s at 125mm = 24 l/s — consider 150mm
60+ l/s (recirculating equivalent) 150mm
High-spec (50+ l/s) 150–200mm 3.0 m/s at 150mm = 53 l/s

The relationship between velocity, diameter, and flow rate: Q (l/s) = π/4 × d² × v × 1000 (where d is in metres, v in m/s)

For most domestic ducted hoods: 125mm is the minimum; 150mm is better and significantly reduces resistance; 100mm should not be used.

Duct run length and bends:

For long duct runs (over 6m effective), either:

Duct Route and Installation

Common route options:

  1. Through external wall behind the cooker — shortest run, lowest resistance; requires core drilling; external face requires wall grille
  2. Up through ceiling, across loft, out through roof or gable — common in terrace houses; risk of duct joints leaking in loft; seal all joints with aluminium tape
  3. Through ceiling into adjacent bedroom wall above — noise issue if the duct passes close to sleeping areas; consider insulating the duct
  4. Island hood up through ceiling — always a longer run; insulate duct in loft to prevent condensation inside the duct

Condensation in ducts — warm moist extract air passing through a cold duct will condense inside the duct. Symptoms: dripping from the hood on cold mornings, water pooling at the base of a wall grille. Solutions: insulate the duct wherever it runs through cold spaces; ensure the duct runs continuously to fall toward the outside (not toward the hood); fit a condensate drain at the base of any section that cannot fall outward.

Fire dampers — where the duct penetrates a fire-rated wall or floor (particularly kitchen over garage, kitchen into a party wall loft), an intumescent fire damper rated to match the fire resistance of the penetrated element (typically 30 or 60 minutes EW or EI) must be fitted. The damper must be accessible for maintenance and replacement. This is a Building Regulations Part B requirement.

Electrical Installation

Extract fans and cooker hoods are Part P notifiable work when:

Work must be carried out by a competent person registered with an approved Part P competent person scheme (NAPIT, NICEIC, ELECSA), or Building Control must be notified and the work inspected. The electrical connection must be via a fused spur or double-pole switch accessible near the hood; a BS 1363 socket is not acceptable as the primary connection to a hardwired appliance.

For hoods with integral lighting (standard), the LED or lamp circuit is typically low-voltage (12V or 24V) from an integral driver — no additional Part P implications for the lighting itself.

Replacing an Existing Hood

When replacing an existing extract hood:

  1. Check the existing duct size — if the replacement hood requires 125mm and the existing duct is 100mm, either replace the duct or use a 100mm-rated motor
  2. Check the existing electrical connection — many older hoods used a 13A plug behind the unit; this is now considered poor practice but not prohibited; a fused spur (3A or 5A) is better
  3. For like-for-like replacement of same duct size and electrical connection, Part P notification may not be required — check with the competent scheme or Building Control
  4. Confirm the new hood will fit the existing cabinet opening; ceiling-mounted and wall-mounted hoods have different chassis sizes

Frequently Asked Questions

Does a cooker hood need planning permission?

Not for a standard domestic installation. However, where the external duct grille is visible on a listed building or in a conservation area, Listed Building Consent or permitted development constraints may apply. Check with the local planning authority.

Can I duct a cooker hood into the chimney breast?

Only if the flue is confirmed as disused and sealed, and the duct terminates above the sealed section. Never duct into an active flue — the extraction flow can be reversed by chimney draw and carbon monoxide from any connected appliance can enter the kitchen. Confirm the chimney is fully disused and the cap/sealed flaunching is in place before routing through it. Some chimneys also have shared flues serving multiple floors — always confirm sole use.

Why does my cooker hood not seem to pull much air?

Most commonly: the charcoal/grease filters are clogged (clean or replace), the duct run is too long or has too many bends (check effective duct length), or the external termination grille is partially blocked. Some modern airtight houses also create a negative pressure problem — the extract fan pulls more air out than can enter through background ventilation, and the differential pressure stalls the fan. Opening a window 20mm or fitting a background trickle vent resolves this.

Regulations & Standards