Gas Cooker and Hob Installation: Bayonet Fittings, Proximity Rules, Category I/II/III Appliances

Quick Answer: Gas cookers and hobs in UK domestic premises must be installed by a Gas Safe registered engineer. Freestanding cookers use a BS 669 bayonet fitting (male connector on appliance, female on supply) with a 1.5m maximum flexible hose. Built-in hobs use rigid pipework or an approved flexible connector. Minimum clearances are 150mm from hob edge to adjacent combustible surface. Category I (natural gas), II (dual gas), III (propane/butane) appliances are not interchangeable without conversion.

Summary

Gas cooker installation is high-volume bread-and-butter work for Gas Safe domestic engineers. Despite its apparent simplicity — connect the hose, check for leaks, light the burners — there are numerous technical and regulatory requirements that are frequently missed. The consequences of incorrect installation include gas leaks, carbon monoxide risk, fires, and potential prosecution under the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998.

The most common installation errors are: using a flexible hose longer than 1.5m (maximum), failing to check that a second-hand appliance is category-matched to the gas supply, ignoring proximity requirements for combustible surfaces, and not conducting a tightness test after connection. Each of these creates a potential safety incident.

The appliance category system (I, II, III) is particularly important when dealing with second-hand or imported appliances. An appliance marked for category I (G20 natural gas at 20mbar) may physically connect to an LPG supply but will have completely incorrect gas rates and air/fuel ratios, leading to incomplete combustion and potentially lethal CO production.

Key Facts

Quick Reference Table

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Appliance Category Gas Type Supply Pressure Injector Size Interchangeable?
Category I (G20) Natural gas (methane) 20 mbar Natural gas injectors Not without conversion
Category II (G20/G30) Natural gas or butane 20 mbar / 28–30 mbar Dual injector set Convert with kit
Category II (G20/G31) Natural gas or propane 20 mbar / 37 mbar Dual injector set Convert with kit
Category III (G30) Butane (LPG) 28–30 mbar LPG injectors Not without conversion
Category III (G31) Propane (LPG) 37 mbar LPG injectors Not without conversion

Detailed Guidance

Freestanding Cooker Connection

The standard connection for a UK freestanding gas cooker uses a BS 669 bayonet fitting:

Supply side (wall-mounted bayonet socket):

Appliance side:

Flexible hose specification:

After connection:

  1. Turn on gas at ECV
  2. Conduct tightness test using U-gauge manometer: apply 20mbar pressure, isolate supply, check for pressure drop over 1–2 minutes
  3. If test passes, light all burners in turn
  4. Check flame appearance: natural gas = blue with possible yellow tips; excessive yellow/orange indicates air starved or incorrect gas rate

Built-in Hob Connection

Built-in hobs do not use bayonet fittings — they connect via rigid pipework or approved flexible connectors:

Rigid pipework:

Flexible connectors for built-in hobs:

Cabinetry considerations:

Proximity Requirements for Combustible Surfaces

Adjacent vertical surfaces (cupboard sides, walls): Per the manufacturer's installation instructions (always takes precedence), and per IGEM/UP/2i general guidance:

Above the hob:

Below the hob (underhob space):

Appliance Category Identification and Conversion

Reading the data plate: Every gas appliance has a data plate (usually on the back, inside the door, or on the back of a drawer) showing:

Identifying a second-hand appliance:

  1. Find and read the data plate
  2. Confirm category against supply type (G20 for natural gas, G30/G31 for LPG)
  3. If category does not match supply: do not connect until converted

Conversion procedure:

Imported appliances: Appliances bought in other European countries may be correctly CE-marked but configured for different supply pressures or gas categories common in those countries. An Italian-market appliance may be G20 at 20mbar (compatible) or G25 (Dutch network gas, different Wobbe index). Always verify before connection.

Tightness Testing After Installation

A tightness test is mandatory after every gas connection, regardless of how confident the engineer is in the quality of the joints.

Procedure (IGEM/UP/1B domestic tightness test):

  1. Close all appliance cocks
  2. Connect U-gauge manometer to test point (usually on meter or ECV outlet)
  3. Pressurise installation to working pressure (approximately 20–25mbar)
  4. Observe pressure over 2 minutes
  5. Pressure must remain stable (no drop)
  6. If pressure drops: there is a leak; do not complete the installation until found and repaired

Locating leaks:

Record keeping:

Frequently Asked Questions

Can a customer connect their own gas cooker?

No. Under the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998, any work on a gas fitting — including connecting a gas cooker to an existing bayonet socket — is classed as gas work and must be carried out by a Gas Safe registered engineer. There is no DIY exemption for domestic gas connections.

The existing flexible hose looks fine — does it need to be replaced?

The flexible hose should be replaced if: it is more than 5 years old (check date stamp on hose); it shows any kinking, cracking, discolouration, or physical damage; or the existing hose is not to BS 669. The age of the hose is hard to assess visually. If date stamp is absent, replace it. A new hose costs £15–£30 and takes 5 minutes to fit — the risk of a faulty hose is not worth the saving.

What is the maximum number of gas appliances that can be connected to a standard domestic supply?

There is no fixed maximum by count, but total gas demand must not exceed the capacity of the meter, supply pipe, and regulator. Use the calculation: sum all appliance inputs in m³/hour (divide kW input by 10.8 for natural gas); if total is under 6 m³/hour, a standard U6 meter is adequate. For larger combined loads, a meter upgrade is required (see gas meter upgrade).

What is an FFD and do I need to test it?

An FFD (Flame Failure Device) is a thermocouple or thermopile that cuts off gas if the flame goes out. Modern hobs and most modern ovens have FFDs on all burners. Testing is simple: light the burner, hold the ignition button for 15 seconds to heat the thermocouple, then release — the flame should stay on. If it goes out, the FFD may be defective or the thermocouple/seat may need cleaning. A non-functioning FFD means gas continues to flow if the flame blows out — this is a serious safety hazard and must be repaired or the appliance condemned.

Regulations & Standards