Fence Post Depth Calculator: Depth Rules, Post Sizing and Concrete vs Driven Installations

Quick Answer: Post depth follows the rule: one-third of the above-ground height + 150mm minimum. For a 1.8m fence, depth = 600mm + 150mm = 750mm. Post sections: 75×75mm for fences up to 1.2m; 100×100mm for 1.8m; 125×125mm for 2.1m or over. Concrete base should be minimum 3× the post width in diameter. Fences over 2m in height require planning permission; over 1m on a highway boundary require planning permission.

Summary

Fence post installation looks simple but has a high failure rate. The most common mistakes are insufficient post depth, posts set in concrete without consideration for frost heave, and wooden posts in direct ground contact with no preservative treatment. A fence post is a cantilevered beam — the load it carries (wind on the fence panels) creates a bending moment at ground level that must be resisted by the buried portion of the post.

In the UK, wind loads on fencing are significant — particularly in exposed locations. A full 6-panel fence run on a windy corner can exert considerable force on each post. The rule of one-third provides a structural margin of safety that has proven reliable in UK conditions for residential fencing over many decades.

Key Facts

Quick Reference Table

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Fence Height Post Section (Timber) Total Post Length Minimum Burial Depth Planning Permission?
Up to 1.0m 75×75mm 1.6m 600mm No (PD)
1.0m on highway boundary 75×75mm 1.6m 600mm Yes — over 1m on highway
1.2m (4ft) 75×75mm 1.9m 700mm No (PD)
1.5m (5ft) 100×100mm 2.2m 700mm No (PD)
1.8m (6ft) 100×100mm 2.55m 750mm No (PD)
2.1m 125×125mm 2.95m 850mm Yes — over 2m height
Ground Condition Recommended Approach
Firm dry soil / clay Postcrete dry-mix in 300mm diameter hole
Soft soil / silty Increase depth 100mm; larger diameter hole (350mm)
Waterlogged / made ground Driven Metpost spike or 900mm depth poured concrete
Rocky / made ground with rubble Break through to stable soil; or bolt-down base on pad
Sandy / loose 900mm depth minimum; 350mm dia hole; reinforced base
Hard standing (concrete/tarmac) Core drill + bolt-down post base; or break out and concrete

Detailed Guidance

Calculating Post Hole Dimensions

Step 1: Determine fence height and post depth. Apply the rule: depth = (fence height ÷ 3) + 150mm minimum.

Step 2: Determine hole diameter. Minimum: 3× the post section. For a 100mm post: 100 × 3 = 300mm. Use 300–350mm diameter for concrete installations. For driven spikes, no concrete hole is needed; the spike diameter determines the driven hole size.

Hole depth = burial depth + 50mm for drainage (loose stone or broken brick at base).

Step 3: Calculate concrete volume. Volume of hole (cylinder) = π × r² × h For a 200mm diameter hole, 600mm deep: = π × (0.1)² × 0.6 = 0.0188m³

But only about 85% of this is concrete (post takes up the rest): ≈ 0.016m³ per hole

A 20kg bag of Postcrete makes approximately 0.012m³. So 2 bags per post (allowing some excess).

Concrete Type and Mixing

Postcrete (dry-mix post concrete): Pour dry into hole around post. Add water as directed. Sets in 10–20 minutes. Ideal for DIY and small-scale fencing. Available in 20kg bags from builders merchants (typically £4–6/bag). Do not pre-mix in a bucket — pour dry into the hole.

ST2 concrete (site-mixed or ready-mix): For large runs, a volumetric concrete lorry delivering ST2 is more economical. Specify the concrete grade and delivery to point of use.

Avoiding waterlogged post bases: Add 50mm of gravel or broken brick to the bottom of the hole before setting the post — this provides drainage and prevents the timber post base from sitting in standing water.

Setting Posts Plumb

  1. Dig hole with post hole borer (auger) or manual spade. Clean out loose soil
  2. Add gravel drainage layer at base (50mm)
  3. Lower post into hole. Check post is at correct height — mark the burial depth on the post before digging
  4. Hold post plumb in both directions using a spirit level on two adjacent faces. Use temporary timber props nailed to the post to hold it while concrete sets
  5. Pour Postcrete dry into hole to within 50mm of surface
  6. Add water as directed (typically 3–4 litres per bag)
  7. Form a slight mound above the surface to shed water away from the post
  8. Leave undisturbed for at least 30 minutes before releasing temporary props (minimum 2 hours before fitting panels)

Working in sequence: On a long run, set all corner and end posts first, then a string line between them as a height and alignment guide for intermediate posts.

Timber Preservation to BS 8417

UC4 grade (ground contact): All post sections buried in the ground must be UC4 pressure-treated to BS 8417:2011. UC4 treatment penetrates the timber under vacuum pressure with an organic biocide (typically copper-azole). Life expectancy 30+ years. Never substitute UC3 for in-ground use.

UC3 grade (above-ground external): Suitable for fence rails, capping rails, gravel boards — above-ground parts that stay damp (UC3b) or are fully exposed (UC3b). Not for post bases.

End-grain protection: Do not leave cut end-grain timber exposed in the ground. Apply bitumen paint, end-grain preservative, or sealant to all cut ends before burial. End grain absorbs water 10× faster than face grain and will rot from the inside out even in UC4 treated posts if end-grain is left untreated.

Driven Posts: Metpost Spikes and Postmaster

Metpost (Ajax/Fischer post spike): A galvanised steel spike driven into the ground using a Metpost driver (a dead-blow mallet tool). The square socket at the top accepts a matching-size timber post (75mm or 100mm socket sizes). The post is never in contact with the ground — the steel socket supports the base.

Advantages: fast installation (no concrete); post can be removed; no frost-heave of concrete; allows natural drainage around the post.

Limitations: requires firm, stable soil (not waterlogged clay, made ground, or running sand); not suitable for exposed windy locations where the leverage on the spike can rock it over time; not appropriate for posts carrying a gate (gate loads are too high for a driven spike without concrete).

Postmaster steel post system: A hot-dip galvanised or powder-coated steel H-section post that is set in a concrete foundation, with the above-ground portion providing the post. No timber post is needed. The steel section is bolted to fence panels or receives arris rails. Very durable, dimensionally stable, and resistant to impact. Increasingly used on close-board fences as a long-term alternative to timber.

Installation: set the Postmaster post in a 300–350mm diameter hole to the required depth using the same concrete procedure as timber posts.

Planning Permission Height Limits

Under the Town and Country Planning Act 1990 and the GPDO 2015:

Highway boundary caution: the highway boundary is often wider than the visible road — it can extend to the back of the footway or the verge. Check the highway boundary with your local council before building a 1m fence near the road.

Conservation areas and listed buildings: Permitted Development rights may be reduced or removed. Consult the LPA before erecting any fence in a conservation area or listed setting.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many Postcrete bags do I need for a run of 6 panels (7 posts)?

7 posts × 2 bags each = 14 bags minimum. Buy 16 bags to allow for spillage and variation in hole size.

My fence posts keep leaning over time. What's wrong?

This indicates insufficient burial depth or soft ground conditions. If the posts were only buried 300–400mm in soft clay, they will eventually rock and lean. The fix requires re-digging to proper depth and resetting in concrete. For the future, in soft clay conditions, increase burial depth to 750–900mm.

Can I use timber closeboard posts in waterlogged ground?

Yes, but with caution. Use UC4 timber, increase burial depth to 900mm, ensure drainage at the post base, and monitor annually. In permanently waterlogged conditions, galvanised steel Metpost spikes or concrete posts may be more durable.

My ground has a lot of flint/rubble just below the surface. What can I do?

If the flint layer is shallow (under 200mm), break through it with a steel bar or SDS drill. Once through, the hole can be dug normally in the soil beneath. If the flint layer is deep and continuous (a dense chalk flint layer), consider bolt-down post bases on a surface pad, or metal spikes driven between flints.

Regulations & Standards