Herringbone Tile Pattern Guide

Quick Answer: Herringbone tiling uses rectangular tiles set at 90° to each other, creating a V-shaped or zigzag pattern. The most common proportions are 2:1 (e.g. 300mm × 150mm, 600mm × 300mm). Setting out always begins at the room centre or a prominent focal line — never from a wall. Waste is 10–15% for a standard herringbone; 15–20% for 45° diagonal herringbone. For calculating tile quantities, use the tile quantity calculator.

Summary

Herringbone is one of the oldest decorative tile patterns in European building — its roots lie in Roman opus spicatum, the alternating brick technique used in Roman roads and floors. In contemporary UK residential interiors, herringbone has become the most popular decorative tile layout for kitchen floors, hallway tiles, and bathroom floors, having displaced the straight-stack and brick bond patterns that dominated the 1990s and 2000s.

The pattern's appeal is its ability to add visual interest without requiring complex tile shapes — a single rectangular tile format laid in alternating 90° angles creates a dynamic, directional effect. The same tile used in a straight-stack or offset brick bond appears sophisticated and handmade in herringbone, which is why the pattern commands a premium in most bathroom and kitchen refurbishments.

The installation is more time-consuming than a straight or offset bond for two reasons: the setting-out is more complex, and the waste percentage is higher (particularly at perimeter cuts, which intersect the tile at an angle). This guide covers the full herringbone installation process for both floor and wall applications. For the parallel article on herringbone in solid wood flooring, see parquet flooring installation.

Key Facts

Quick Reference Table

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Format Pattern Waste % V Direction Setting-Out Start
300mm × 150mm Standard herringbone 10–12% Perpendicular to entry Room centre
600mm × 300mm Standard herringbone 10–12% Perpendicular to entry Room centre
75mm × 150mm (metro) Standard herringbone 12–15% Up/down or sideways Centre of feature wall
100mm × 200mm Diagonal 45° herringbone 15–20% 45° to walls Room centre diagonal axis
600mm × 300mm Offset (staggered) herringbone 10–12% Any Dominant wall

Detailed Guidance

Setting Out a Standard Herringbone Floor

Herringbone setting-out takes more planning than a straight bond but once established, the laying is straightforward:

  1. Identify the primary axis — the spine of the herringbone pattern. For most rooms, this is the centreline of the longest dimension, aligned so the pattern's V-points face the main entrance or window. Mark this line with a chalk snap line across the full room
  2. Set the first tile — place the first tile centred on the primary axis at the far end of the room (the end farthest from where you will finish). The tile should be centred on the axis — the axis passes through the centre of the tile
  3. Establish the secondary axis — snap a chalk line at exactly 90° to the primary axis through the centre point of the first tile; this guides the alternating tiles
  4. Dry-lay a run — without adhesive, lay 10–12 tiles from the first tile back towards you along the primary axis to check that the cut tiles at each perimeter will be at least half a tile wide. If not, shift the first tile along the axis to achieve acceptable perimeter tiles
  5. Mark the grid — from the first tile position, snap additional chalk lines parallel to the two axes at intervals corresponding to the tile dimension (e.g. every 300mm for a 300mm × 150mm tile); these guide alignment as you progress

Common mistake: starting at a wall and working across. The perimeter cuts in herringbone are angled and the pattern always drifts slightly. Starting from the centre means any drift is corrected by snapping lines at intervals; starting from a wall compounds drift across the full room.

Setting Out a Herringbone Wall (Kitchen Splashback)

On a wall, the focal point determines setting-out:

  1. Identify the most prominent feature (a window centre, the top of a hob, a tile panel between eye-level cabinets)
  2. Snap a vertical centre line from this feature
  3. The first tile (or the V-point) centres on this line
  4. For a horizontal splashback band: snap a horizontal datum line at the midpoint of the band height; set out tiles symmetrically above and below this line to achieve equal cuts at top and bottom
  5. Back-butter if tiles are over 200mm long (even on walls, large tiles benefit from back-buttering to achieve the required adhesive coverage)

Laying in Adhesive

For floor herringbone, work in sections of approximately 1m² — herringbone requires adjusting each tile's alignment relative to its neighbours and the chalk grid, which takes more time per tile than a straight bond.

  1. Apply adhesive with the appropriate notched trowel, combing in a single direction parallel to the primary axis
  2. Set each tile to the chalk grid alignment, checking the 90° angle at each tile junction with a small set square
  3. Maintain consistent joint width using spacers — in herringbone, the joint spacing within a pair of tiles (the same direction) must match the joint spacing between pairs (alternating direction). Use cross spacers at intersections
  4. Press each tile firmly with a rubber mallet and beating block; check level across every 4–6 tiles
  5. Clean adhesive from the joint before it skins over — hardened adhesive in a herringbone joint is visible and time-consuming to remove

Cutting Perimeter Tiles

Perimeter cuts in herringbone are angled — the tile at the edge does not run parallel to the wall, so the cut is at 45° (for standard herringbone) or some other angle (for diagonal herringbone). Use a wet saw for all perimeter cuts; a score-and-snap cutter cannot make reliable angle cuts.

Measure each perimeter cut individually — do not assume that all cuts at a given wall are the same angle. In a room that is not perfectly square, the cuts will vary. Mark each tile with a pencil before cutting and verify against the wall.

For diagonal (45°) herringbone: all perimeter cuts are at 45° to the tile edges. A mitre fence on the wet saw set to 45° speeds up perimeter cutting significantly.

Grouting Herringbone

The joint width in herringbone is typically 1.5–3mm, so use a non-sanded or fine-sand grout. The herringbone pattern creates intersections of three or four tiles rather than the simple cross joints of a straight bond — these intersections must be grouted carefully to avoid leaving voids.

Apply grout diagonally to the tile face with a rubber float, working at 45° to the tile direction. Diagonal application is especially important in herringbone — grouting parallel to the tile direction pulls grout back out of the joints.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size tile works best for herringbone in a small bathroom?

For a bathroom under 5m², 300mm × 150mm tiles are typically the optimal size — large enough to read the pattern clearly from standing height, small enough not to overwhelm the space. Very large herringbone formats (600mm × 300mm) can look oversized in small bathrooms with many cuts. Very small formats (75mm × 150mm) create a busy effect and require significantly more labour.

Can herringbone be used on a shower floor?

Yes, particularly with small-format tiles (75mm × 150mm or smaller) where the high grout joint frequency provides natural slip resistance. The shower floor must have the correct drainage fall, and the herringbone pattern must be set out so that it remains visually coherent despite the angled falls. On a falls-to-centre layout (four-way fall), set out the herringbone independently of the fall direction and allow the perimeter tiles to be cut to the fall profile.

Does herringbone cost more than straight-lay to install?

Typically 15–25% more per m² in labour, reflecting the additional setting-out time, higher waste, and slower laying pace due to the alignment required at each tile junction. The material cost is also higher due to waste. This should be accounted for when quoting herringbone tile work.

Which direction should the V-points face?

There is no single right answer, but the convention most fitters follow is: V-points face towards the main entrance or the room's focal point (fireplace, window). This creates a "drawing in" effect that reads as intentional. The alternative is V-points facing away from the entrance, which gives a "flowing out" impression. Discuss with the customer before setting out — once laid, re-setting the direction requires relaying the whole floor.

Regulations & Standards