Summary

Floor screeds are one of the least-forgiving construction elements. Get the mix wrong, cure it wrong, or tile onto it too early and the result is a bond failure that's only visible weeks or months later when tiles lift, cracks appear, or wood floors cup. Rectification is almost always a full lift and re-lay — there is no partial fix.

For a plasterer, floor-layer or tiler, screed knowledge sits at the boundary between two trades and is the point where blame lands when a floor fails. The tiler blames the screeder, the screeder blames the drying schedule, the customer blames whoever they can find. Documented pre-tile moisture testing protects everyone.

The rise of anhydrite (calcium sulphate) liquid screeds in the last 15 years has changed the game — they are faster to lay, self-levelling and better for UFH — but they demand rigorous drying discipline before covering. Cement screeds are more forgiving but slow. Choose the right system for the programme.

Key Facts

Quick Reference Table

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Screed Type Depth Foot Traffic Foot-Load OK Tile-Ready
Cement (bonded, 25mm) 25 min 24 hr 3 days 21–28 days
Cement (unbonded, 65mm) 65 min 24 hr 7 days 28+ days
Cement (floating, 75mm over insulation) 75 min 24 hr 7 days 28–35 days
Cement (over UFH, 65–75mm) 65 above pipe 24 hr 7 days 28 days min + heating cycle
Anhydrite (40–50mm) 40 min 24–48 hr 7 days 40+ days with sanding
Anhydrite (75mm over UFH) 75 above pipe 48 hr 7 days 60+ days with heating
Mix Reference (cement:sand by volume) Application
1:3 sharp sand (with polypropylene fibres) Domestic, standard load
1:4 sharp sand Domestic light-load only
1:3.5 with rapid cement Fast-track domestic
1:4:1 (cement:sand:crushed 6mm) Industrial / heavy-load

Detailed Guidance

Preparation before screeding

Mixing a sand-and-cement screed

Never batch by weight of sand — sand batches by volume with allowance for bulking (moisture content adds ~25% to loose volume). A good rule:

Over-wet mix is the number-one cause of cracked/soft screeds. If your screeder is pouring wet-looking mixes to make finishing easier, expect cracks and dust when it cures.

Laying and finishing

Anhydrite / liquid screed process

Anhydrite is different in three critical ways:

  1. Self-levelling — poured through a pump, spread with dappling bars only. No trowelling. Levels to within 2mm across 2m.
  2. Fast strength gain — 24-hour walkable, 48-hour light load, 7-day full load. Reduces programme by weeks.
  3. Laitance formation — a 2–5mm thick chalky calcium-sulphate skin. This layer is porous, weak, and blocks adhesive bonding.

Laitance removal is non-negotiable:

Skipping laitance removal or using the wrong adhesive is the #1 reason tiled anhydrite floors fail. Document the sanding step with photos before laying.

Moisture testing — critical, always

Both screeds MUST be tested before covering. Never rely on time alone — a "42-day-old" screed in a damp new build can still be 4% moisture, well above spec.

Methods (BS 8203):

Document every reading with location, date and reading. If a floor covering later fails, the moisture record proves you did your part.

Drying conditions

Screed dries at approximately 1mm per day under ideal conditions:

Under UK winter conditions in a new build with wet trades still working, drying rate can drop to 0.3mm/day. A 65mm screed can take 6 months to dry naturally in poor conditions.

Force-drying methods:

Never force-dry cement screed before day 21 — sudden drying causes plastic shrinkage cracks. Anhydrite can be commissioned earlier per manufacturer.

Cracks and defects

When to insist on lift-and-relay

If any of these:

Do not tile onto a suspect screed. The re-lay cost is £30–£60/m²; a bond failure claim on a large tiled area can be 10× that.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I tile onto a screed at 21 days?

Only if you've measured the moisture and it's below spec, AND you're using a fast-set adhesive system. Standard practice is 28 days minimum for cement screed at 65mm. Rushing this is the #1 cause of tile bond failure in domestic work.

What if the UFH pipes have <60mm cover above them?

Below the recommended cover, thermal cycling stress on the screed can crack it above the pipes. If cover is 40–50mm, use a reinforced anhydrite mix or add a fibre-reinforced cement mix. Below 40mm, redesign the buildup.

Do I always need to prime before tiling?

Yes, on anhydrite absolutely (compatibility). On cement screeds, primer improves adhesion and reduces adhesive water-loss into the substrate. Skip it and adhesive can dry too fast, causing hollow spots.

Can I use ready-bagged floor levelling compound as a screed?

Only as a topping over an existing sound screed, typically 3–20mm depth. Levelling compounds are not screeds — they are thin bond-coats or top-outs. Not structural, not for depths beyond product spec.

The customer wants to lay tiles tomorrow — what do I say?

If the screed was poured today, no. If yesterday, no. If a week ago, still no. The customer's programme urgency does not change the physical curing timeline. Explain in writing what happens if they force it, and put your name to a proper timeline. That's your protection.

Why does anhydrite fail with cement adhesive?

Anhydrite is calcium sulphate. Cement-based adhesive contains portland cement which reacts with residual calcium sulphate + moisture to form ettringite, an expansive crystal that destroys the bond over weeks or months. Use calcium-sulphate compatible adhesives (F ball F46, Mapei Ultralite Flex, etc.) on anhydrite substrates.

Regulations & Standards