Summary

Sealed (combi and system-boiler) central heating depends on three pressure-related components working together: the filling loop (which lets you add water to set the cold pressure), the expansion vessel (which absorbs the volume change as water heats), and the pressure relief valve (which dumps water at 3 bar to prevent overpressure damage). When all three are healthy, the system pressure sits at 1.0–1.5 bar cold and 1.8–2.5 bar hot, year after year, with no customer intervention.

When something goes wrong, the symptoms are recognisable but the diagnosis often goes wrong because plumbers reach for the easy answer (top up the pressure, or replace the boiler) rather than systematically test. A 30-minute diagnosis using a pressure gauge and tyre pressure gauge can identify the specific fault and avoid a £200 boiler service that doesn't address the root cause.

This article covers the physics in plain terms, the standard pressure-fault diagnostic sequence, the expansion vessel test procedure, the cure for each common fault, and the typical costs of repair vs replacement. The focus is sealed systems; vented (cold tank in loft) systems work differently and have their own troubleshooting flow not covered here.

Key Facts

Quick Reference Table

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Symptom Likely Cause Diagnostic
Pressure low (<1 bar) at all times System leak (or recently topped up and not fully bled) Visual inspection + air bleed + monitor over days
Pressure jumps high (>2.5 bar) when heating fires Expansion vessel diaphragm failed Vessel charge test; replace vessel or recharge
Pressure rises very high (>3 bar) — PRV discharges Expansion vessel failed OR PRV faulty Vessel test + PRV test
Pressure swings between 0.5 and 2.5 bar Vessel pre-charge low or vessel undersized Check vessel pre-charge; size against system volume
PRV drips continuously PRV faulty seat or vessel issue causing overpressure Replace PRV + check vessel
Pressure drops slowly over weeks Small leak somewhere — radiator, pipe joint, AAV Sniff test, inspect joints, check loft for damp
Pressure rises when not heating Filling loop left open (common DIY error) Close filling loop; drain to correct pressure
Vessel Charge Test Reading Conclusion
Pre-charge = 1.0 bar (cold) Correct for typical domestic OK
Pre-charge = 0 bar (cold) Diaphragm failed OR all air leaked out Recharge OR replace
Pre-charge = 0.3 bar Significant loss; partial diaphragm leak Recharge; monitor; likely full replacement soon
Pre-charge correct but system pressure spikes Vessel undersized for the system Add auxiliary vessel
Pre-charge correct, system stable OK No action
Component Cost (Trade) Cost (Customer S&F)
New 8L vessel £25–£45 £100–£200
New 12L vessel £35–£65 £140–£280
New 18L vessel £55–£95 £180–£320
Replace integrated boiler vessel £45–£90 (part) £200–£450 (in-boiler labour)
Recharge vessel pre-charge (no replacement) £8–£15 (Schrader valve gas) £80–£150 (labour)
Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) replacement £15–£35 (valve) £80–£200
Filling loop replacement £25–£60 £100–£250
Combined service: vessel + PRV + filling loop £50–£120 (parts) £350–£600

Detailed Guidance

Diagnostic Sequence

When a customer reports "pressure keeps dropping" or "PRV is dripping" or "boiler is losing pressure":

  1. Cold pressure reading. Switch heating off, allow system to cool fully (1–2 hours). Read pressure gauge. Should be 1.0–1.5 bar. Note reading.
  2. Heat the system up. Bring to full operating temperature (radiators all hot, return on boiler at 50–60°C). Read pressure. Should be 1.8–2.5 bar.
  3. Calculate the swing. Difference between cold and hot. Normal is 0.5–1.0 bar; >1.5 bar swing suggests vessel issue.
  4. Cool the system back down. Pressure should return to cold reading. If pressure does NOT return to cold reading, there may be air absorbed into water or a vessel charging issue.
  5. Test the expansion vessel. Drain to 0 bar at boiler (close isolators first), test vessel charge with a tyre pressure gauge on the vessel's Schrader valve. Compare to expected (1.0–1.2 bar for standard domestic).
  6. Test the PRV. With normal system pressure, lift the manual lever momentarily — should discharge water then seal back. If continuously drips after lifting, replace.
  7. Leak check. Visual inspection of all visible pipework, joints, radiator valves, pump connections. Pay attention to under-floor runs and loft pipework.

Expansion Vessel — The Critical Component

The expansion vessel is a steel cylinder with a rubber diaphragm dividing it into two chambers: one connected to the system (water side), the other pre-charged with air or nitrogen (gas side). As the water heats and expands, the diaphragm moves into the gas side, compressing the air; this absorbs the volume change without significant pressure rise.

When the diaphragm fails, the gas escapes into the water side (lost to the air bleed at radiators) and the vessel is full of water. There is now no buffer for thermal expansion — system pressure rises rapidly when heating fires, often triggering the PRV.

Testing the vessel charge:

  1. Isolate the system from the vessel (close any valve on the vessel branch; if none, isolate the boiler)
  2. Drain the system to 0 bar at a low-point drain
  3. The vessel water side now has no system pressure; only the pre-charge gas remains
  4. Push the Schrader valve cap aside; apply a tyre pressure gauge to the valve stem
  5. Read the pre-charge pressure

Result interpretation:

Recharging:

Pressure Relief Valve

The PRV (also called safety valve, overflow valve) discharges at 3.0 bar to protect the system from overpressure damage. It is set at the factory and cannot normally be adjusted in the field.

PRV failures:

Replacement is straightforward: drain system to 0 bar, unscrew old PRV, screw in new one (PTFE on threads), refill. Cost £15–£35 part, 1–2 hours labour.

Filling Loop

The filling loop is the flexible braided hose that connects the mains cold supply to the heating system, with two isolation valves and (in newer designs) a check valve to prevent backflow.

Common issues:

Filling loop replacement is a Water Regs notifiable change (different from sister regulation but is a backflow-prevention device); check WRAS for the specific filling loop product compliance.

System Top-Up Procedure

For a customer or trade top-up:

  1. Confirm cold (system off, no recent operation)
  2. Confirm where the filling loop is and how to open/close the valves
  3. Slowly open the filling loop valves
  4. Watch the gauge rise to 1.2 bar
  5. Close both valves
  6. Bleed any high points (radiator at the top of the run, towel rail in the bathroom)
  7. Top up again to 1.2 bar
  8. Confirm cold reading stable
  9. Heat system; check hot reading is within 2.5 bar
  10. Cool back; confirm cold reading returns to ~1.2 bar

If the system needs topping up more than once a year, there is a leak somewhere — investigate before another top-up.

Common Misdiagnoses

Worked Example: Vessel Diagnosis and Replacement

Job: Customer reports boiler "keeps cutting out" and they have to top up the pressure weekly. Visit.

Tests:

Repair: replace integrated 8L vessel (or fit auxiliary vessel external to boiler, depending on access).

Item Cost
Replacement 8L vessel + bracket + connector £55
22mm copper tee, fittings, washers £25
Inhibitor (BS 7593) for system refill £25
Spirit level, sealant, tape £8
Materials subtotal £113
Labour 2.5 hours @ £55/hr £138
System drain + refill + bleed £40
Test, commission, hand-over £35
Labour subtotal £213
Subtotal £326
Markup 20% £65
Net price £391
VAT 20% (if registered) £78
Customer price (VAT-reg) £469

In real markets this is the typical "boiler losing pressure" service call. A new boiler quote at £2,500 would be wrong unless the boiler is genuinely old and other components are also failing.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the correct cold pressure for my heating system?

Typically 1.0–1.5 bar. Specifically, the boiler manufacturer's installation manual specifies the range — check the brand and model. Higher cold pressure means higher hot pressure (potentially over the PRV setpoint); lower cold pressure means low system head and potential pump cavitation.

How do I know if my expansion vessel has failed?

Three signs: (1) system pressure rises sharply when heating fires and drops back when cool; (2) PRV discharges water periodically; (3) pre-charge test reads zero. The pre-charge test is definitive — drain the system, apply a tyre pressure gauge to the Schrader valve, read.

How often should I top up my system pressure?

Once or twice a year is acceptable as routine; more than that suggests a leak or vessel issue. Investigate, don't just keep topping up. If you're topping up every week the system has either a small leak or a failed vessel; both need professional diagnosis.

Can I recharge an expansion vessel myself, or do I need a plumber?

Technically possible — drain system, recharge vessel with a foot pump to 1.2 bar, refill system. Practically, most homeowners don't have the gauge, the foot pump with correct fitting, and the confidence to drain and refill correctly. £80–£150 to have a plumber do it is usually money well spent.

What does it mean when the PRV is dripping?

System pressure has exceeded 3.0 bar at some point and discharged through the PRV. Once a PRV has discharged, the seat sometimes doesn't re-seal cleanly and a slow drip continues. The underlying cause is usually a failed expansion vessel; fix that and then either replace the PRV (recommended) or test if it re-seals.

Regulations & Standards