Summary

Picket fencing is the classic low decorative timber fence used at front gardens, cottage boundaries, and to mark non-secure divisions within larger plots. Unlike close-board or panel fencing, picket is a partial visual barrier — its purpose is demarcation, light containment of dogs or children, and kerb appeal rather than privacy or security.

Tradespeople take picket fencing jobs for granted at their cost. The mechanics look simple — posts, two rails, pickets — but the failure modes are subtler than feather-edge: pickets twist if not properly seasoned, rails sag under their own dead load if span exceeds 1.83 m, and the visual setout (consistent gap, square tops, level top line on sloping ground) is where customer disputes arise. The job rewards careful preparation and is unforgiving of "near enough" work.

A common misconception is that picket fences don't need the same post depth or fixing care as full-height fencing. While the wind load is genuinely lower, a 1.2 m picket fence with closely spaced pales has a similar exposed area per linear metre as a 1.5 m feather-edge with gravel boards. Post depth still needs to follow the standard rule of one-third of total post length below ground, or 600 mm minimum for fences up to 1.2 m and 750 mm for 1.5–1.8 m. See fence post installation depth.

Key Facts

Quick Reference Table

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Spec 900 mm fence 1050 mm fence 1200 mm fence 1500 mm fence
Post size 75×75 mm 75×75 mm 75×75 mm 100×100 mm
Total post length 1500 mm 1650 mm 1800 mm 2250 mm
Post depth below ground 600 mm 600 mm 600 mm 750 mm
Post centres 1.83 m 1.83 m 1.83 m 1.83 m
Rail size 38×75 mm 38×75 mm 47×75 mm 47×75 mm
Number of rails 2 2 2 3
Pale length 900 mm 1050 mm 1200 mm 1500 mm
Pale spacing (gap) 50 mm 50–60 mm 60 mm 60 mm
Concrete per post (Postcrete bags) 1 1 1 2

Detailed Guidance

Survey and Setout

Before quoting, walk the line and check:

String a line from corner to corner using string and pegs. Mark each post position with spray paint or a peg. On long runs, sight along the line — kinks of 20 mm in 10 m are visible to the eye and the customer will spot them.

Post Installation

For a 1.2 m picket fence:

  1. Dig post hole 200 × 200 mm minimum, 600 mm deep. Use a post-hole borer for clean sides in heavy soil; a shovel and crowbar in stony ground.
  2. Place 100 mm of 20 mm gravel or hardcore in the base for drainage.
  3. Stand the post in the hole and brace with two scaffold boards at right angles, plumbed in both axes with a 1.2 m spirit level.
  4. Pour Postcrete dry into the hole, then add 2.5 litres of water per bag. Tamp gently with a stick to release air pockets.
  5. Re-check plumb within the first 3 minutes — Postcrete sets in 5–10 minutes.
  6. Form a slope on the top surface of the concrete so water sheds away from the post.

For straight runs, install end and corner posts first, then run a string line at top-of-post height to set intermediate post heights consistently. On a gradient, decide before starting whether posts step down (each bay horizontal with top line stepped between posts) or rake (top line follows the ground at a constant angle).

Rail Fixing

Two rails per bay for fences up to 1.2 m, three for taller. Position:

Rails can be fixed to posts in three ways:

Method A — Face-fixed (simplest)
  Rail butts against post face, screwed or nailed through rail into post
  Pros: Fast, no notching
  Cons: Less rigid, exposed end grain

Method B — Mortise and tenon (traditional, premium)
  Rail tenoned into mortise in post
  Pros: Strongest, looks correct on heritage jobs
  Cons: Slow, requires accurate post mortising

Method C — Galvanised rail brackets
  Steel L-bracket screwed to post and rail
  Pros: Fast retrofit, allows rail removal
  Cons: Visible steel unless boxed

Pre-drill rail ends if screwing close to the end — split rails are a common defect.

Pale Fixing

Set the first pale at one end, plumb, with consistent ground clearance (75–100 mm above grass to prevent rot — never on the ground). Fix with two stainless ringshank nails or screws per rail.

For consistent spacing, make a timber gauge:

The eye is highly sensitive to inconsistent gaps and out-of-plumb pales. Plumb every fourth pale rather than relying on gauges alone, especially on cold days when timber dimensions vary.

For pointed tops, cut the 45° point on a mitre saw before fixing if working in volume; for one-off cottage jobs, cut after fixing for a perfectly aligned top line.

Gates and Pedestrian Openings

Picket gates typically 900 mm to 1100 mm wide. Use:

Always hang the gate before fixing the final picket pale so spacing remains consistent.

Treatment, Stain, and Maintenance

Pressure-treated UC3 softwood arrives green/brown from the treatment plant. Allow 4–6 weeks of dry weather before applying any finish — sap and treatment chemicals continue to bleed and a coat applied too early peels.

Options:

Always finish all four sides of pales before fixing — water enters end grain and works back behind the visible face.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between picket and palisade fencing?

In UK trade usage, "picket" refers to short decorative timber fencing typically 900–1200 mm high with rounded or pointed pales for cottage and front-garden use. "Palisade" can mean either a similar timber fence with more pointed pales for animal containment (sheep, garden) or a heavy-duty steel security fence (W-section or D-section pales, typically 2.4 m high). Always confirm which the customer means before quoting.

Do I need planning permission for a picket fence?

For most residential boundaries, no — Permitted Development allows up to 2 m at the rear/sides and 1 m at the front (where adjacent to a highway used by vehicles). However, listed buildings, conservation areas, and Article 4 Direction zones may require planning consent for any new boundary treatment. See planning permission fences walls. Always check before quoting on heritage properties.

How do I keep the top line level on sloping ground?

Two acceptable approaches: stepped (each bay is horizontal, with the top line dropping in increments between posts — looks correct in formal gardens and on driveways) or raked (top line follows ground gradient, requiring pales of slightly different lengths — looks correct on rural and informal sites). Agree with the customer before starting and reflect the chosen approach in the quote.

Can I use treated softwood pales or do I need hardwood?

Pressure-treated softwood (UC3) is the UK standard for picket fencing and will give 15–20 years' life if installed correctly with ground clearance. Hardwood (oak, sweet chestnut) is appropriate for high-end heritage work or where the customer specifies a longer life without re-staining. Never use untreated softwood — it rots within 2–3 years at the rail-pale junction.

Why are my pales twisting after installation?

Three common causes: timber not adequately seasoned before fixing (move from yard to site under cover for 1–2 weeks if possible), only one nail per pale per rail (always use two so the pale cannot pivot), or moisture migration through end grain (cut all pales to length, seal the cut ends with end-grain sealer or a generous brush coat of stain, then fix).

Regulations & Standards