Summary

Domestic solar PV is now common enough on UK roofs that "why has my system stopped generating" is a routine call-out, not a rarity. For the tradesperson attending, the fault sits in one of three places: the point of connection to the property's electrics (isolators, RCDs, consumer unit), the inverter itself (which converts DC panel output to AC and manages grid synchronisation), or the panels/strings on the roof. Getting the diagnosis order right matters — most call-outs are resolved without going on the roof at all.

A common misconception among homeowners is that "no generation" means a dead panel. In practice, panel failure is one of the least likely causes. Far more common are a tripped RCD/MCB in the consumer unit, an inverter that has gone into fault mode after a grid disturbance, or someone (often an electrician working on an unrelated job) leaving the DC or AC isolator switched off after other work. Genuine panel or bypass-diode failure usually shows as partial output loss (one string down) rather than total shutdown.

Anyone fault-finding beyond visual inspection and isolator checks on the AC side needs to understand that DC-side work on an MCS-certified system can affect warranty and insurance validity if done by someone who isn't competent to do it — and DC arc faults are a genuine fire risk. If the fault is on the DC side (string wiring, connectors, panel-level), and you're not an MCS-certified solar installer, the correct action is safe isolation and referral, not opening junction boxes on the roof.

Key Facts

Quick Reference Table

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Symptom Most likely cause Who can fix it
No display on inverter at all, no output Isolator switched off, tripped MCB/RCD, no incoming supply Electrician / homeowner (isolator check)
Inverter display on but shows fault code Grid fault, insulation fault, DC undervoltage MCS-certified installer
Output present but well below expected for weather Shading, soiling, degraded panel, dirty array General trades (cleaning) / installer (diagnosis)
Sudden step-drop in output (not gradual) Failed bypass diode, failed optimiser, string connector fault MCS-certified installer
Output fine but app/monitoring shows nothing CT clamp fault, Wi-Fi/monitoring dongle fault, meter fault Installer or monitoring vendor support
RCD trips whenever system tries to generate Insulation fault on DC side, moisture ingress at connector MCS-certified installer (DC isolation required)
System worked, now nothing after other electrical work nearby Isolator left open, MCB left off after other trade's work Electrician (check isolators first)
Gradual year-on-year decline in output Panel degradation (expected ~0.5%/year), soiling build-up Cleaning first, then installer assessment

Detailed Guidance

Isolation and safety before any inspection

Before touching any part of the system, confirm what you are and aren't qualified to isolate. The AC isolator (usually near the consumer unit) de-energises the inverter's grid-side connection. The DC isolator (at or near the inverter, sometimes also at the roof level on larger systems) isolates the panel string from the inverter — but the cabling between the panels and that isolator remains live in daylight. Never assume a system is "off" because the AC side has been isolated.

SOLAR PV NOT GENERATING — DECISION TREE
|
├─ Is it daytime with reasonable daylight?
│   ├─ NO → not a fault, check again in daylight
│   └─ YES
│       │
│       ├─ Does the inverter display/LED show anything?
│       │   ├─ NO (completely dead) →
│       │   │     Check AC isolator position
│       │   │     Check DC isolator position
│       │   │     Check consumer unit MCB/RCD for the PV circuit
│       │   │     → if all closed/on and still dead: inverter failure, call installer
│       │   │
│       │   └─ YES (display/LED on) →
│       │         ├─ Fault code or red/amber warning light?
│       │         │     → grid fault / insulation fault / DC undervoltage
│       │         │     → note exact code, call MCS-certified installer
│       │         │     → DO NOT open DC junction boxes yourself
│       │         │
│       │         └─ No fault code, but output is low or zero →
│       │               Check for shading on any part of array (even partial)
│       │               Check panel surface for soiling, bird mess, debris
│       │               Compare output to a known-good day (same season/weather)
│       │               → if genuinely underperforming with no shading/soiling:
│       │                     failed bypass diode, failed panel, or optimiser fault
│       │                     → call MCS-certified installer
│
└─ Is the complaint "monitoring app shows nothing" but bills/meter look normal?
      → check physical inverter display first
      → if inverter is generating normally: monitoring/CT clamp/Wi-Fi fault only
      → not a generation fault, lower priority

Isolator and protective device checks

This is the first and most productive step on any call-out, and it's within scope for a general electrician even without MCS certification. Confirm:

A significant proportion of "system down" call-outs are resolved at this stage with no further work needed.

Reading inverter fault codes

Inverter fault codes vary by manufacturer and this guide does not recommend specific brands or model-specific codes — check the installer's handover documentation or the inverter manufacturer's technical support line for the exact code meaning. Broadly, fault codes fall into three families:

Shading, soiling and gradual output decline

Genuine panel degradation is real but slow — typically around 0.5% output loss per year, built into the manufacturer's 25-year performance warranty. A sudden or seasonal drop in output is far more likely to be:

When to escalate to an MCS-certified installer

Any fault that requires opening a DC junction box, disconnecting MC4 connectors, testing string voltages, or working at the panel level should go to the original installer or another MCS-certified solar PV installer. This protects the homeowner's SEG eligibility, keeps any remaining product/workmanship warranty valid, and avoids the DC arc-fault risk that comes with untrained work on live or potentially live DC cabling.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I just reset the inverter myself?

Turning the AC isolator off and back on (after waiting the manufacturer's specified time, often around 30 seconds to a few minutes) is generally safe and can clear a transient grid-fault trip. It will not fix a genuine hardware fault, insulation fault, or panel-level issue — if the fault code returns immediately, it needs a competent installer.

Is it dangerous to inspect the panels myself?

Visual inspection from the ground (checking for shading, debris, obvious physical damage) is safe. Going onto the roof, opening junction boxes, or disconnecting MC4 connectors without training is not — the DC side is live whenever there's daylight, and unlike mains AC, DC arcs don't self-extinguish, which is a recognised fire risk investigated by fire services on rooftop PV installations.

Why does my system show generation on the app but my bill hasn't gone down?

This is very rarely a generation fault — it's more likely a tariff, export metering, or usage-timing issue (generating during the day while the property's main consumption is in the evening, for a system without battery storage). Worth checking, but it's a different diagnosis path from "not generating."

The system stopped after a power cut — is that expected?

Yes. Grid-tied inverters are required to disconnect during a mains outage as an anti-islanding safety measure (protecting anyone working on the network) and should reconnect automatically once stable grid supply resumes, typically within a few minutes.

Does a failed inverter always need full replacement?

Not always — some faults are repairable (fan failure, capacitor failure, firmware issues) but string inverters around 10-15 years old failing outright are commonly replaced rather than repaired, as the manufacturer's warranty period has usually expired and repair costs approach replacement cost.

Regulations & Standards