Summary

Choosing between a back inlet gully and a hopper head is one of the most common drainage queries on extensions, kitchen relocations and shower-room work. Get it wrong and the Building Control inspector will reject the connection — the rule is well-established but easily missed because old housing stock is full of hopper-head waste connections that were acceptable in their day but no longer comply.

The fundamental rule: foul waste must be trapped, sealed and not exposed to open air at the discharge point. A back inlet gully meets this rule because the waste pipe enters below the grating and discharges into a trap. A hopper head fails this rule because waste discharges into open air, allowing smells and insects to escape (the original purpose of the trap), and is therefore not permitted for foul connections in new work.

Hopper heads remain entirely valid for rainwater — that's what they were designed for. The confusion arises when an installer plumbs a basin or shower into an existing hopper head because it's the easiest connection; this used to be tolerated, but today is a Building Regs failure.

Key Facts

Quick Reference Table — When to Use Which

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Connection Use Back Inlet Gully Use Hopper Head Notes
Kitchen sink waste Yes No Internal connection preferred; BIG if external
Washing machine waste Yes No BIG only
Dishwasher waste Yes No BIG only
Bathroom basin waste Yes No If routed externally
Bath/shower waste Yes No If routed externally
Utility sink waste Yes No BIG only
Rainwater downpipe (gutter) Below gully or to surface water Yes Hopper at top of downpipe acceptable
First-floor balcony rainwater Below gully or to surface water Yes Hopper acceptable for rainwater junction
Boiler condensate (external route) Yes (trapped, with neutraliser if pH-required) No BIG only
Outdoor tap drainage Surface water or BIG No Direct to soakaway also possible

Detailed Guidance

Back inlet gully construction and depth

A back inlet gully has three connections:

PLAN VIEW — BACK INLET GULLY
============================

                    [GRATING] (top)
                       │
                       ▼
                    ┌──────┐
   SIDE INLET ──→  ─┤      ├
   (waste pipe)     │ TRAP │
                    └──┬───┘
                       │
                       ▼
                  OUTLET to foul drain
                  (110mm, falls to chamber)

Key dimensions for a domestic install:

Installation sequence

For a typical extension drainage with a new BIG:

  1. Excavate trench from new chamber to BIG location at 1:40 fall.
  2. Bed 110mm PVC pipe on pea gravel.
  3. Install BIG, ensuring grating at correct level (set above future paving level).
  4. Connect waste pipe from inside building into side inlet. Use a deep-seal trap inside if total run is over 3m.
  5. Pressure-test the foul system before backfilling.
  6. Notify Building Control for inspection if extension or new connection (Section 106 of WIA 1991 may also apply for connection to public sewer).
  7. Backfill with pea gravel to 100mm above pipe crown, then granular fill.
  8. Concrete or paving over.

Why hopper heads are no longer acceptable for waste

Three failure modes in old hopper-head waste installations:

  1. Foul air escape — open hopper releases sewage smells into the air, particularly in summer.
  2. Insect/rodent ingress — open hopper provides entry to drains.
  3. Splash and overflow — waste discharging into a hopper can splash onto walls; in winter the splash can freeze and block the downpipe.

Pre-1990s housing stock often has bathroom waste from a first-floor basin discharging into a hopper at the eaves; this connects directly into a soil and vent pipe (SVP) below. While these can usually be left in place under a "like-for-like" repair, any modification triggers an upgrade to current standards. So if a homeowner replaces the basin, the installer must reroute waste through a BIG or trapped internal connection — not back into the hopper.

Sizing for waste from multiple appliances

When a single BIG receives waste from more than one appliance:

Appliance Mix BIG Side Inlet Trap Depth
1 basin (32mm) 50mm with reducer 50mm
1 sink + 1 washing machine (40mm) 50mm Y-branch 50mm minimum
2 sinks + 1 washing machine 110mm with branches 75mm preferred
Utility (sink + washer + dryer condensate) 110mm 75mm preferred
Kitchen + utility combined 110mm 75mm preferred

For more than 3 fittings on a single BIG, install two BIGs or route via a chamber with a 110mm branch.

Hopper heads — where they remain valid

Hopper heads are still appropriate for:

Always confirm the hopper discharges to a surface water drain or soakaway, not to the foul drain (where the property has a separate system — older combined systems accept both).

Condensate from boilers

A condensing boiler condensate pipe routed externally must:

A frozen condensate is the single most common winter boiler callout. Using a BIG with a properly designed trap and insulated external run eliminates 90% of these failures.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I connect a washing machine waste to an outside hopper if there's nowhere else?

No — not for new work or modifications. Approved Document Part H requires foul waste to be discharged into a trapped connection (gully or trapped branch). A hopper has no trap and discharges into an open downpipe. Common options when a BIG seems impossible: install an internal trapped connection to the existing SVP, or fit a new BIG into the existing drain run with a short trench. Either is acceptable; the hopper option is not.

Do I need Building Control approval to install a new BIG?

If you're installing as part of a notifiable project (extension, conversion, new appliance connection involving drain modification), Building Control will inspect the drainage as part of the project sign-off. For a like-for-like replacement of an existing BIG, no notification is normally required, but the work must still comply with Approved Document Part H. If in doubt, submit a Building Notice.

Can a BIG be installed inside a property?

Yes, but it's uncommon. Internal BIGs are sometimes specified in kitchens and utility rooms in new builds where the slab construction permits. The grating must be sealed against splashing and odour — easier and cheaper to fit a trapped connection internally (e.g. a P-trap on a basin, S-trap on a kitchen sink) and run the waste underground to an external chamber.

What's the minimum water seal depth required?

50mm per BS EN 1253. Modern UK practice favours 75mm seals where pipe pressure changes could siphon the trap (long branch runs, multi-storey systems). A 50mm seal can be siphoned by a single washing-machine pump-out if the system isn't vented; 75mm is the safe default.

How do I deal with an existing hopper-head waste connection during a kitchen refit?

Treat it as a fault that needs correcting under "modification triggers upgrade". The cleanest fix: cut the waste pipe back, install a new BIG at ground level, connect the waste run from inside the building to the BIG side inlet, and cap or remove the old hopper-head connection. Cost typically £200–£450 in materials plus 0.5-1 day of labour. Add it as a separate line item on the quote with a clear explanation — most customers accept it once they understand it's a regs failure.

Regulations & Standards