Decking Construction: Joist Spacing, Bearers, Fixings & Building Regs

Quick Answer: Domestic garden decking does not normally require Building Regulations approval if it is less than 300mm above ground and not attached to a building in a way that affects the structure, but decking over 300mm high, attached to a house, or covering more than half the garden of a new-build does require approval. Timber joists are typically 47×100mm at 400mm centres for domestic spans; all timber must be C16 or above and treated for ground contact or above-ground exposure.

Summary

Garden decking has been one of the most popular outdoor improvements in UK residential properties for twenty years. Done well, it creates a durable, attractive surface that extends usable outdoor space. Done badly — with untreated timber, inadequate drainage, or poor fixings — it rots in five to eight years and becomes a liability.

The regulatory position trips up many contractors. Permitted development allows most domestic decking without planning permission or Building Regulations notification, but there are significant exceptions: proximity to boundaries, height above ground, attachments to the building, and properties in conservation areas all affect what requires consent. Getting this wrong leaves the customer and the contractor exposed.

Structural adequacy is non-negotiable. Decking must carry live loads safely — a deck full of garden furniture and people is a significant load. Joist sizing, span, bearing, and fixing must be calculated correctly. The structural hierarchy is: foundation (posts or pads) → bearers → joists → decking boards.

Key Facts

Quick Reference Table

Spending too long on quotes? squote turns a 2-minute voice recording into a professional quote.

Try squote free →
Joist Size Max Span (400mm centres) Notes
47×75mm 1.2m Light duty only
47×100mm 1.8m Standard domestic
47×125mm 2.4m Medium span
47×150mm 3.0m Longer span
47×200mm 3.6m Wide bays, verify with engineer
Bearer Size Max Span Between Posts Notes
47×100mm 1.2m Light duty
47×150mm 1.8m Standard
47×200mm 2.4m Medium load
2× 47×200mm (double) 3.0m Heavy load or wide spans
Post Size Max Height Application
75×75mm 600mm deck height Low-level only
100×100mm 1.2m deck height Standard
150×150mm 2.0m+ Elevated deck, engineer check

Detailed Guidance

Planning and Regulatory Check

Before pricing or starting:

  1. Measure deck height above ground — if any part will exceed 300mm, Building Control notification is likely required
  2. Check property type — listed building, conservation area, AONB, or new-build (50% garden rule may apply)
  3. Check attachment to house — decking bolted to the wall requires structural consideration; if the ledger board is bolted to the house joist, it becomes a structural connection and Building Regulations apply
  4. Boundary check — decking close to a boundary in a conservation area may require planning permission

When in doubt, contact the Local Planning Authority — a free pre-application enquiry is better than enforcement action.

Foundation Design

Low-level deck (under 300mm):

Elevated deck (300mm–1.2m):

Ledger board (deck attached to house):

Framing

  1. Set and fix all posts plumb, using post base connectors or post sets in concrete
  2. Fix bearers to post tops using post cap connectors or notch and bolt
  3. Fix joists to bearers using joist hangers (galvanised or stainless steel — never unprotected steel)
  4. Check deck frame is square: measure diagonals before fixing off
  5. Add blocking at joist ends to prevent rollover and at any mid-span support points

Joist hangers: Use the correct specification for the joist size (manufacturer-specific) — undersized hangers have lower capacity than the joist. Nail with the correct galvanised joist hanger nails (typically 30×3.75mm), not standard wire nails.

Decking Boards

Board direction: Typically run away from the house for visual effect. Boards running parallel to the house look wider; perpendicular emphasises depth.

Pre-drilling: Always pre-drill near board ends (within 150mm of end grain) to prevent splitting — even with self-drilling screws.

Hidden fixings: Clip systems (e.g. Camo Edge Fastener, Ipe Clip, DecTie) give a clean surface appearance. Most require a specific gap dimension — check manufacturer's guidance. Hidden fixings reduce maintenance access if a board needs replacing later.

First and last boards: The last board at each edge should overhang the outer joist by 25–40mm for a clean finish. Cut the overhang using a chalk line and circular saw after all boards are fixed — do not try to pre-cut every board to a perfect length.

End grain sealing: Treat all cut ends with a compatible end-grain sealer immediately after cutting — end grain absorbs water far faster than the face and is the primary entry point for moisture that causes checking and splitting.

Timber Species and Durability

Species Natural Durability Class Notes
Scandinavian pine (treated) UC3/UC4 with treatment Most common, economic
Larch Class 3 (moderately durable) Attractive, needs periodic oiling
Sweet chestnut Class 2 (durable) British hardwood, expensive
Hardwood (Balau, Bangkirai) Class 1 (very durable) Long life, heavy, slippery when wet
Composite (e.g. Trex, Millboard) N/A — not timber 25-year warranties common; no splinters; higher cost
Softwood untreated Class 4 (not durable) Do not use externally — rots rapidly

All structural timber (posts, bearers, joists) must be UC3 minimum, UC4 if in ground contact. Decking boards require UC3 treatment or a naturally durable species.

Handrails and Balustrades

Where deck level is 600mm or more above adjacent ground level:

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need planning permission for garden decking?

In most cases, no — domestic garden decking is permitted development. Exceptions are: decking exceeding 300mm above ground level, decking covering more than 50% of the garden area, properties in conservation areas, listed buildings, national parks, or Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. If the deck is attached to the house and might affect the structure, Building Regulations may also apply.

What is the best timber treatment for decking?

For structural components (posts, bearers, joists), use timber factory-treated to UC4 standard (for ground contact) or UC3 (if clear of the ground on metal connectors). For decking boards, UC3 pressure-treated softwood is adequate; finish with a quality decking oil or stain annually. Avoid creosote (prohibited for residential use), and avoid water-based stains on timber that sits wet frequently — they peel.

How do I stop decking boards from cupping (bowing upward at the edges)?

Cup occurs when one face of a board takes up more moisture than the other. Fit boards bark side up (the curved grain lines point downward when viewed from the end). Ensure air can circulate beneath the deck — a minimum 150mm ground clearance is ideal. Oil the underside of boards before fitting. Avoid very wide boards (over 120mm) — they cup more than narrow boards.

How long should decking last?

Properly constructed decking with treated softwood and stainless fixings should last 15–20 years with regular annual maintenance (cleaning and re-oiling). Untreated or poorly treated decking may rot within 5–8 years. Hardwood or composite decking lasts longer — 25+ years with minimal maintenance.

Can I attach decking directly to the wall of my house?

Yes, using a ledger board bolted into the structural wall. This approach requires a proper flashing above the ledger to prevent water ingress, a DPC behind the ledger, and structural fixings into the wall framing or masonry. The connection is a structural junction and must be adequate to carry the deck loads — this is the point where Building Regulations may apply.

Regulations & Standards